Middle Teton

Directions

From Rexburg, head north on Hwy 20. After just a few miles, take the Driggs, Jackson exit onto Hwy 33. Stay on Hwy 33 for the majority of the distance. After passing through Driggs and Victor, ID it will turn into Hwy 22 at the Wyoming border, a steep mountain pass highway that cuts over the Teton Range to the south of the peaks. There is a nice rest stop at the peak of the mountain pass where there is a spectacular view of the Jackson Hole Valley. Continue on this road until you come to a "T" with Jackson's main strip, West Broadway. Turn Left.

Follow West Broadway a mile or so until you come to West Cache Dr. Turn Left. This road will take you past the Jackson Hole Airport. Continue a ways further and turn Left on Teton Park Road. This is the road that leads into Grand Teton National Park. Be prepared to pay a $25 entrance fee ($50 for a year pass into Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks). Follow Teton Park Road for several miles. Turn Left on Lupine Meadows Road until you meet the trailhead where the road ends. Remember, Grand Teton is a National Park. Consequently, camping is only allowed in designated camping areas. Camping outside of those areas will require a backcountry camping permit obtainable from the ranger station, usually at no additional cost.
For directions with map, click here.
For terrain map, click here.


Middle Teton

Grand Teton National Park has a reputation for marvelous peaks, pristine lakes, and beautiful alpine hikes. Each of the three major peaks, Grand Teton, Middle Teton and South Teton, are star attractions, each beginning from the same trailhead. When setting out on any hike in these parts, it is essential to know that, due to the mountain positioning, the differences in Wyoming atmospheric conditions and those of Idaho meet at these peaks, causing extremely unpredictable weather. Severe thunderstorms, flash-flood like rain and even extreme heat can suddenly broad-side any hiker without warning.
Be prepared for anything.

With that in mind, Middle Teton is a thrilling climb. Some special gear, although not required, is highly recommended. Climbers will want to carry an ice axe and crampons at the very least. Even during summer months, large snow fields cover the parts of the canyon leading to the summit, creating potentially dangerous conditions. You may not need them, but if you do, you'll be glad you packed them. Having said that, the trail begins at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead. The trail is fairly slow to climb at first. Hikers enjoy thick forest, lush with green vegetation. Small streams cross the trail, but there are maintained bridges to facilitate crossing. Make a mental note where these streams are. It can get hot up there, and cool glacial streams can provide a refreshing cool down.

The trail continues to get slightly steeper and the switchbacks become more frequent. After two or three miles into the trail, the trees open up for a spectacular view of vast Wyoming and some beautiful lakes that lie just below. Keep your eyes peeled. If you get the right weather conditions, it is really quite breathtaking. As you gain elevation, the veiw only gets better! The next major point is around 3.5 miles. The trees begin to thin; the trail becomes sandwiched between rocky, fallen shale. To one side a sharp ravine, to the other, a steep bed of rocks, shed by the cliffs high above.

The next stage is where the hike gets tough. As hikers enter Garnet Canyon, large boulders block both your foresight and the trail. Scrambling over and around these monstrous boulders is a must, but worth the trouble. The canyon only moves in one direction, so getting lost through the rock forest isn't an issue. However, once through the boulder field, a beautiful mountain meadow follows, as well as many small streams, and a few designated backcountry camping sites. Unless you're a gung-ho, tip-top shape hiker, staying overnight to rest is recommended. The steepest is yet to come, and the size of the canyon cliff walls make hours worth of hiking seem like you've gone nowhere at all. Psychologically, camping over night is relieving. Plus, the east entrance to the canyon channels all of the morning light of the indescribable sunrise. The horizon and surrounding peaks light up in a way that only an early bird can fully appreaciate. If camping sounds like what you'd like to do, be sure to give the ranger station a call, no more than 24 hours in advance, and arrange to pick up a backcountry camping permit. They are free, but in order to preserve the stunted, arduous growth at those elevations, the park service tightly regulates how many parties can camp at one time. There are several different locations where camping is permitted throughout the canyon. Contact the ranger station for a list of available sites.

Now the real ascent begins. There is no distinct trail once you reach Garnet Canyon. However, as you head up the canyon, it splits to the right and to the left with a large peak (Middle Teton) in the center. The trail to Grand Teton follows the right canyon (requiring a good deal of technical equipment: ropes, helmets, harnesses, etc. Only experienced parties should attempt Grand Teton). Middle Teton's approach takes the left canyon, ascending the peak from the southeast, wrapping around and summiting from the southwest. Since there is no trail, the climb is improvised the entire way. Keep in mind, there is only one pathway possible at this point, so getting lost is not an issue.

Up, up, up you go until you reach the saddle between South Teton and Middle Teton. You'll know it when you get there because the canyon comes to a T. Straight ahead is a sheer cliff that drops into a glacial lake lined with the most amazing shade of blue you'll ever see. No photography will do it justice. To the right is Middle Teton and to the left is the route to South Teton. Go right. (By way of psychological warning, there are several ridges or horizons that appear to meet the sky from down the canyon. They appear to be the last saddle. As you reach each "saddle" you will quickly see a new one, higher and further than the last. This can be discouraging if you are expecting each false saddle to be the last. There are probably 4 or 5 of which you should be aware).

This intersection is where the climbing gets tricky. Fatigue is beginning to set in. Your quality of food and water preparation begins to show here. Each step is harder than the last, creating rock slides that reverse your progress as you slip back with each forward movement. Be cautious of where your party members are and warn them of falling rocks when you knock them loose. The way becomes steeper, the air gets thinner, and your footing gets lazier as you approach 13,000 feet. Keep in mind that the peak is not the end. Climbers still need to descend, so be sure you reserve enough energy to safely descend. The majority of climbing injuries occur on the descent.

The peak lies a half mile to a mile from the saddle (the climbing speed and energy level at that altitude make it difficult to judge exactly). At this point, there are numerous ways to approach the peak. Keep your eyes ahead so you can see which routes might lead to dead ends. The last thing you want to do at this point is backtrack. It is difficult to give specific directions during this segment because each year new rock has fallen as the snow clears. You have to play this stretch by ear and work your way up. Be extremely careful. Abrupt cliffs, sliding rocks under foot and over head, and your physical/mental state make this part extremely dangerous and difficult. If you take proper precautions, you should be fine. But don't let all this talk of fatigue and danger scare you off. The peak lies just a little further. It is only about the size of a minivan, but the view is absolutely inspiring. Grand Teton sits to the north, standing as majestically beautiful as ever. Turning to the east you can see miles and miles into Wyoming. Southwards gives a view splashed with peaks, canyons and ridges just beyond South Teton's subtle peak. To the west looks deep into Eastern Idaho. If you get the right weather, you can see forever it seems (see video below). Take your pictures and begin the descent.

The descent is much faster than the climb. If you've taken your ice axe along (highly recommended for safety purposes), glissading is the fastest and most thrilling way to get down. When you come to the steep snow patches, simply sit on your hind quarters, lift your feet and your built in sled will take care of the rest. Use your ice axe to regulate your speed and to brake when necessary. Be careful, though. Before you know it, uncontrollable speeds can take over. Stay in control at all times; use the ice axe. WARNING: NEVER SLIDE BEYOND YOUR FIELD OF VIEW. DO NOT EVEN APPROACH WHERE YOU CANNOT SEE! There are countless cliffs throughout the canyon. It helps to keep mental notes as you ascend so you know where the cliffs are on the descent. (Note: remove crampons when glissading. Crampons are designed for extremely responsive traction in snow. It doesn't take much for a single spike to graze the surface, planting itself. Your foot then becomes just as a pole vaulter's sticking point, flinging you forward while remaining connected to the ground. The result is just short of ripping your foot clear off, and it hurts twice as bad.)

As you descend, again, be careful. Fatigue makes for easy stumbling over all the rocky surfaces. Ankles go out in a hurry with one wrong step. With that in mind, enjoy your hike. It is a beautiful canyon, a spectacular view and a real challenge for those who want it. Be safe.


Photos (click any photo for larger image)
Top: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon
Second from Top: Busy bee along the trail
Third from top: Informational plaque welcoming hikers to the Meadows camping area
Third from bottom: South Teton peak from Middle Teton summit
Second from bottom: Grand Teton peak from Middle Teton summit
Bottom: One of Garnet Canyon's many snow fields. There are visible tracks from those who have glissaded down. In the distance is the northeast face of South Teton.
Below: Video clip from the summit of Middle Teton